BLOOD TRACKING LEAD
8mm (3/8") MOUNTAIN CLIMBING ROPE---
THE BEST ROPE AVAILABLE FOR USE WITH BLOOD TRACKING DOGS
No cheap imitation here!  We've taken an approximate 30 foot length of high-quality mountain climbing rope and have added a scissor swivel snap (attached with metal rope clamp).  Why go to the expense of using mountain climbing rope instead of cheap rope? First of all, it does not pickup as much moisture as regular rope.  Secondly, mountain climbing rope does not have the "memory" of ordinary rope---so it does not tangle as bad when being uncoiled while tracking.  Thirdly, this rope is tight-woven--- so it doesn't pick up stickers and other debris--- yet soft enough to not be rough on your hands.
We recently upgraded to a SUPER-DRY
glacier rope that is 33% more abrasive
resistant---with only a $4.00 increase
in cost (we are constantly endeavoring
to offer the best products available).
Blood Tracking Lead $48.00










PUPPY BLOOD TRACKING LEAD (approx. 10 ft.)
WHEN WORKING PUPS ON BLOOD WE USE A MUCH SHORTER LEAD TO KEEP  US "UP-CLOSE-AND-PERSONAL"
We've taken the same top quality rope and made shorter lead for working pups.  This lead is approximately ten foot long---plenty of rope for closer work for pups.
Puppy Blood Tracking Lead $19.00





TJK CUSTOM LEATHER COLLARS
We are working on various designs so hardware and keepers may vary.  
All TJK Collars will fit dogs with neck sizes of 9-12 inches
unless otherwise specified or requested.
BEFORE PLACING AN ORDER---PLEASE REALIZE THIS IS A CUSTOM
ORDER, AND IT MAY TAKE FROM 6-10 WEEKS TO RECEIVE YOUR COLLAR
                 CALL ME ON MY CELL PHONE FOR ALL COLLAR ORDERS
                  SO THAT I CAN GET ACCURATE NECK MEASUREMENTS.





Two Ounce Blood Syringe (with catheter tip)
The easiest and most-sanitary means for dispensing blood along a practice track. 
We've tried it all---and this works best for depositing blood evenly along an artificially-laid track!  With this large catheter-tipped syringe you simply pull the blood up into the syringe by pulling back on the plunger.   With the syringe full, you then gently and steadily push on the plunger as you slowly walk along the route you have chosen for laying a blood line.   After you are finished with the syringe just rinse it out good with warm water, spray it inside-and-out with a clorox spray, and then rinse again---and it is clean and sanitary, and ready for the next tracking session.  
Blood Syringe  $4.50
TEXAS JAGDTERRIERS.COM
SPECIAL HUNTING AND
TRACKING GEAR
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    Dennis
BLOOD TRACKING LEADS
Jagdterriers are a very versatile breed---well able to learn how to distinguish when they should be hunting for game, or and when they should be "hunting" for a blood line. We start all our young pups out on a lead when we first put them on blood. This not only gives us some control over the pup while it is attempting to work a blood line, but it also lets the pup know that when it is "hunting" on a tracking lead, it should be "hunting for blood".

The Jagdterrier is a very gamey dog that likes to run, catch, and fight critters, so putting your terrier (or other breed) on a lead to blood track is essential. The dog knows that when it has on his wider blood tracking/cut-collar AND the 30-foot rope lead, it is expected to track and find a wounded animal (and not to run coons or chase rabbits).

Many states actually require all blood tracking dogs to remain on a lead rope at all times. But here in Texas we can track off-or-on lead. That is really nice for us folks in the Lone Star State---giving us the luxury to start out on lead---with the option of releasing our tracking dog at any point along the blood line. So I always START OUT all of my Jagds on lead---because I hunt with my dogs all the time and this tells them that we are not on a coon, hog, or varmint hunt---we are tracking a wounded animal. And believe me, these Jagds know the difference. I hunt coons with all my Jagds, so one night a group of four coons came in to a deer feeder (where I was hunting for hogs). I wanted to see what one of my blood trackers would do with four fresh coon tracks---with one of them bleeding. So I shot one of the coons with my bow (aiming for a lethal shot---by the way). The coon was hit hard, but managed to run about 60 yards before piling up. I immediately went and got one of the Jagds and put it out at the feeder on lead to see if it would be able to single-out the wounded coon---and track blood---or if it would just run the first coon track it crossed. Sure enough---my dog put its nose to the ground and I knew that it was looking for blood. The more you work your dogs on blood, the more you learn to differentiate whether it is on blood or on a game trail. I immediately dropped the coils of my lead rope behind me, and off we went---in a straight line towards the downed coon.

So why use a tracking lead? It is the No. 1 tool that you have to teach your versatile Jagdterrier what to do, and when to do it at the right time. Turning a dog out without a lead when hunting game, and then doing the same thing when blood tracking will not send a clear signal to your dog. So whether you LIKE to track game with a lead or not, it is a good idea to always START OUT with your tracking dog on a lead.

I only rarely release one of my dogs from lead when tracking game. Sometime when I am on a very tough blood trail, I will turn loose my dog---allowing it more freedom to swing out to locate a direction of an old or faint track. And sometimes a loose dog will be able to "wind" the body scent of a dead or downed animal, so releasing the dog gives it more latitude to search wider to pick up the scent. But most of the time when I release a dog from lead---it is because we have a live animal ahead of us, and I am ready for my Jagd to bay the critter (so that I can move in to finish it off).

The tracking lead is a great tool---and I recommend that everyone use a lead when tracking wounded game with a Jagdterrier.

TJK BLOOD TRACKING /CUT COLLARS
BLOOD TRACKING COLLARS ARE DIFFERENT
I searched the web everyday for over a week trying to locate a specialized blood tracking collar that would fit our Jagdterriers.   I found one collar that was close to what I was looking for, but it was not wide enough to serve as a protective "cut collar".  I wanted a wider collar for two basic reasons:
1.  To reduce the choking effect on the dog's neck while working with a 30-
    foot tracking lead.
2.  To cover the vital area of the neck (in the jugular region) to protect the
    dog from the teeth, tusks, or antlers of a wounded animal.

ON OCCASION THE ANIMALS WE TRACK WILL STILL HAVE ENOUGH LIFE REMAINING TO PUT UP A SERIOUS FIGHT WITH OURTRACKING DOGS, SO WE HAVE DESIGNED COLLARS THAT OFFER A VERY WIDE AREA OF NECK-CUT PROTECTION. 

WE OWN VERSATILE DOGS, SO WE NEED A VERSATILE COLLAR.  WE COULD NOT LOCATE SUCH A COLLAR ANYWHERE IN THE WORLD, SO WE BUILT OUR OWN.  NOW WE ARE OFFERING OUR SPECIALIZED COLLARS TO OTHERS THAT HAVE THE SAME NEEDS. WE HAVE SMALL COLLARS FOR OUR SMALL BREED, YET WIDE AND TOUGH ENOUGH TO OFFER THE PROTECTION WE NEED FOR OUR VALUABLE TRACKING DOGS.  THE SPECIAL SWIVEL ATTACHMENT ON OUR FREDERICKSBURG SERIES COLLARS WORKS WELL TO REDUCE COILING AND TANGLING OF THE LEAD ROPE. 
COLLAR VS. HARNESS
When we bought our first Jagdterrier we soon discovered that the established "rule" for for blood tracking was the harness. The reason behind the use of the harness was this---the dog will recognize the harness and know that everytime it wears a harness it is expected to work blood.   Great idea based on a wonderful premise---however---we soon discovered some strong liabilites to the use of this type of gear:
1.  It was very difficult to put a harness on a very excited dog.  There were
    just too many straps and attachments that were hard to position on a
    squirming pup or a fired-up adult dog.  The only way we could get the  
    harness on some dogs was by very stern correction (to make them
    stand still).  We do not feel like stern correction is appropriate prior to a
    tracking work out.  Blood tracking is FUN for the dog and the owner---
    and putting on a harness prior to every tracking job was NEVER
    pleasant for dogs or owners.   After six months of one wrestling match
    after another, Jan and I decided the blood tracking harness was just
    too much of a hassle for its worth. 
2.  On several occasions our dogs would hang their collars on brush and
     low-hanging limbs, and at times we even had to crawl on hands and
     knees to free them up  to continue a tracking job.  It didn't take but a    
     couple of "hang-ups" to convince us that tracking harnesses are not
     just a hassle, but they can be very troublesome in thick brush---and
     possibly very dangerous to the safety of our dogs.  
    a.  Occasionally a dog will "pull" a lead and escape with the lead
          dragging behind it.   A dog that got a harness hung up when it was
          out of sight and out of hearing could be in serious trouble.
     b.  If a harness has a tendency to hang on brush and limbs---what is
           the possibility of it getting hung on the antler of a deer or the tusk of
           a wild boar?   Harnesses are OUT at Texas Jagd Kennel---and for
           good reasons!

TJK BLOOD TRACKING/CUT COLLAR VS. TRADITIONAL CUT COLLARS
WHY NOT HAVE THE BEST OF BOTH WORLDS---A BLOOD TRACKING COLLAR THAT ALSO SERVES AS A CUT COLLAR?
The cut collars used by hog hunters are wider than traditional collars and many of them have multiple layers of nylon (and even Kevlar) to offer protection from sharp teeth, tusks, and antlers.   Unfortunately, cut collars were not originally-designed to have a lead attachment.  We ordered D-ring attachments on several of the hog-hunting cut collars that we own, and after dozens of blood tracking jobs on live game, we discovered that occasionally the tracking lead would pull too hard on the collar and it would shift sideways (or just somehow get whomper-jawed) and it would not set right on the dog's neck.   The standard hog-hunting cut collar has a wide protective area that fastens with velcro---with one or two small outer buckle straps.   If the collar gets pulled by brush or while baying an animal, the velcro can loosen somewhat and allow some slippage under the thin attachment straps.  This made the collar ride funny, and if the velco came completely loose the collar lost some of its protective function.  
WE TRIED HARNESSES FIRST---THEN CUT COLLARS---AND WERE NOT COMPLETELY SATISFIED WITH EITHER.   SO WE DESIGNED OUR OWN TOP QUALITY LEATHER COMBINATION BLOOD-TRACKING/CUT COLLARS---THAT NOT ONLY GET THE JOB DONE,  BUT THEY LOOK MUCH BETTER ON OUR DOGS.

ALAMO SERIES - 1-1/2 or 2 inch collar that can be used for hunting or blood tracking.  It has a D-ring for easy attachment during hunting.  

DALLAS SERIES - Our 2-1/2 combination hunting and blood tracking collar.  It has a D-ring attachment for quick catches when hunting or for when tracking wounded game off-lead.  It is a wider collar that will offer more protection against biting animals, antlers, or tusks.  We can make this collar in a two inch width by special request.

FREDERICKSBURG SERIES - Our traditional German-style blood tracking collar with the extra width and strength to double as a cut collar.  If you are tracking wounded hogs, bear, antlered deer, or other fighting (dangerous) game---this is the collar for you.   And even if you are just tracking a wounded doe, the extra width distributes the weight of the lead---reducing the choking effect.  The special swivel does not extend far enough out to be a hindrance to the dog in thick brush, but we do not recommend this collar for continuous use in hunting.  When we designed this collar, we had the serious blood tracker in mind.   We can make this collar in a two inch width by special request. 

CARE OF LEATHER COLLARS - The Europeans have been using hand-made custom blood tracking collars for the past century.  Leather is pliable, yet still strong and durable.  But leather does require periodic maintenance.   There are good leather conditioners available at almost any western wear store, and neatsfoot oil is always a good choice for conditioning and helping in water resistance.   If your collar does get saturated with moisture, it should be laid out flat to dry, and then treated before the next use.   This is a very simple carefree procedure that will prolong the life of every collar.   Our collars are built for working dogs, so a few scratches and bite marks will just add character to your collar.   Applying neatfoot oil and a waterproof coating will do wonders for a collar that has taken a tough beating on a hunting or blood tracking adventure.   We have leather conditioning products available, so if you are interested in purchasing what we use for our collars, please call or email. 




LET'S TALK ABOUT
DEE'S TJK PRODUCTS
WE OFFER A FREE TWO OUNCE BLOOD SYRINGE WITH ALL TRACKING LEADS.
WE OFFER A FREE TWO OUNCE BLOOD SYRINGE WITH ALL TRACKING LEADS.
DEE'S TJK ENTERPRISE UPDATE:
January 24, 2012

All of our leatherwork is custom-made by hand, so we will need time (aside from our regular jobs to complete any orders).   We have leather and hardware in stock at all times, so we can work on orders whenever we have time to do so. 

Right now we are re-designing all of our collars,and we have new hardware on order.  So we are not taking any orders until we can post updated pictures  and prices.

We will no longer offer special tooling nor stamping of names, so that all collars that don't fit can be returned at no charge (buyer pays all shipping charges). 

Thank you,
Dennis Luton 


CALL FOR SPECIAL ORDER ONLY